I started the new year with Peace Corps friends in the Ivory Coast.
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I started the new year with Peace Corps friends in the Ivory Coast.
Phillip Martin's Peace Corps Ivory Coast Web Site
Phillip Martin's Peace Corps Ivory Coast Web Site
MANxxx I started the new year with Peace Corps friends in the Ivory Coast.x It was well after dark when we finally arrived in the town of Man.x To our amazement, the town was a million times better than Monrovia.x Clean and modern!x
We ate at "The Village".x Kevin, Amanda, and I ordered a rice and bird dish called "akpani".x We expected it to be similar to something from Liberia.x Maybe a soup dish served over rice.x Well, it was the last time I ever ordered an unknown meal.x I was served a plate with two whole birds that looked very suspicious.x But we knew that what we suspected was not possible!x My plate was the only one to still have a bird with a head.x That confirmed our suspicions!x It had fangs!x Amanda had us in hysterical laughter.x Neither of us could take our plates.x We sent it back for fish.x Kevin took a few bites.x I did sample his.x We agreed it wasn't very good, but it wasn't half "bat".
It was late and we needed a place to stay.x We found a hole called "The Fraternity".x Our room had a double bed, a bench, and a door to the shower.x The toilet was several rooms away.x We had no sink.x Kevin thought it a major bummer to have no mirror.x The place was really no worse than places I'd stayed at in Peru -- except for the mosquitoes.x I shut the door to the mosquito / cockroach infested shower.x It helped some.x Kevin had never slept in a place like it before.x His last comment before falling asleep was, "Do you think we'll be safe?"x We were safe from everything except possibly malaria.
The market was really so colorful.x I only wanted one mask.x I saw a neat one in a "closet" that this Moslem shopkeeper led me into.x He didn't want to let me out.x He was quite a salesman.x The mask started at 15,000 CFA.x By the time I had it to 5,000 CFA, he had it wrapped up for me but I wasn't finished bargaining.x I offered 4,500 CFA.x He unwrapped it, hung it up, led me from the closet, shut the door, and walked away in disgust.x I guess we both knew great bargaining tactics.x When I finally did buy the mask, Debbie passed by.x He told her I was too tight and his voice was tired.
ABIDJANxxx It was simply beautiful to stroll around Abidjan.x How were we to know how dangerous it was?x We were at the Senegalese market for a while.x The merchants were too eager and everything was too expensive.x As we sauntered away, we heard a crashing thud.x A huge palm branch fell from a tree and missed us by mere inches.x It could have done major damage. Maybe it was a sign?
We walked to Treichville, the really African section of the city, where the market was colorful and the merchants aggressive.x Again I bought nothing.x I went on a walk and found a beautiful mosque.x We were about to get a guided tour but I guess some people protested.x Abu, from the mosque, guided us around Treichville.x He took us to a restaurant, to a few mosques, and shopping.x When the afternoon was over, he escorted us back to the bridge leading to the Plateau area of town.
As we descended the bridge's ramp, the unbelievable happened -- again.x Rogues attacked the two girls.x It all happened so fast that it took me a while to realize what was going on.x But I wouldn't ever forget the knife I saw in one of the men's hands as he chased after Amanda.
After that, our hotel sounded pretty good.x Amanda wouldn't leave the room so Debbie and I went for some street food.x We stayed in each other's sight the whole time.x The only thing I could say when we finally got back to our room was, "At least our things are still in the room."x A robbery there would have made the day complete.x However, I knew I could live with incomplete.
DALOAxxx Amanda, Debbie and I got an early taxi to the bus station.x The driver asked us if we had our tickets yet.x It had never occurred to us to buy early.x We'd been in Liberia too long.x The four buses going to Abidjan were all full.x We tried another company and got our seats right away.
Our bus was the nicest mode of transportation I'd seen in West Africa.x We were so impressed that it had individual seats, cassette music, a television / video system, and a working time schedule.x I still didn't have much legroom, but I managed to doze.
It all happened so fast and I wasn't sure what actually happened.x I never would know.x I had my knees propped up and slid down in the seat.x All was comfortable.x Suddenly, for some unknown reason, we were thrown about.x I remembered a shower of glass and liquid, a pause, another shower of glass and liquid, and loud noise as the bus plunged over a rail, down a steep hill, and into some trees for a crashing halt.x The next thing I remembered was Amanda screaming, "Am I bleeding?!!!"
It's a rather long story.x When it was all over, it was Debbie's French and Amanda's notes that rescued us when we reached Daloa.x We hooked up with the Catholic mission.x They didn't usually take in any tourists, but they would help bus wreck victims.x We ate, rested, and prayed that we would safely arrive in Abidjan the next day.
A sleepy little town
Hanging corn to dry
FERKESSOUDOUGOUxxx Called Ferke by those who know better, Ferkessoudougou was our connecting base for Korhogo and then on to Burkina Faso.x It was a relief to arrive in that dusty, dry, small town.x We asked a cab driver to bring us to the Catholic mission.x He drove us three blocks for 300 CFA and it was the wrong spot.x He said he'd take us to the proper place for an additional 400 CFA.x We found a different cab.
This part of the Ivory Coast looked like what I expected of Africa.x It was a dry savanna.x The houses were all dirt (either round or square) with thatch roofs.x Little round huts held millet.
After a few days of rest, we headed to the parking station for Burkina Faso where we were herded into the back of a truck like animals.x When we were sufficiently uncomfortable, they put two more people in.x We were off and stopping all day.x It took us about two hours just to leave town.x As soon as we left we came to our first police checkpoint of the day.x There would be seventeen more to follow.x Some were good and some boring.x In one I roamed a neat village taking pictures.x At another two bandits behind bars leered at Amanda.x At the Burkina Faso border, we waited for hours.
KORHOGOxxx We went to the Korhogo market.x It wasn't much but then we found a whole street filled with goodies.x I hadn't bought a souvenir since Man (although I was sorely tempted a few times).x I bartered a mask down to 2,000 CFA's and a batik to 2,000.x The batik guy later pulled me back to agree to 3,000.x I told him he should have agreed with me when I wanted it.x He was upset and walked away without much good to say.x
We went to a union of artisans with weavings at set prices.x From there the shopkeeper got us a cab to go to his village where the crafts were made.x I yielded for a shirt and unique woven doughnut to carry things on your head.x And much later, I learned you shouldn't wash material bought in Korhogo.x The beautiful shirt I purchased was completely ruined when the colors ran after one washing.
MANxxx I started the new year with Peace Corps friends in the Ivory Coast.x It was well after dark when we finally arrived in the town of Man.x To our amazement, the town was a million times better than Monrovia.x Clean and modern!x
We ate at "The Village".x Kevin, Amanda, and I ordered a rice and bird dish called "akpani".x We expected it to be similar to something from Liberia.x Maybe a soup dish served over rice.x Well, it was the last time I ever ordered an unknown meal.x I was served a plate with two whole birds that looked very suspicious.x But we knew that what we suspected was not possible!x My plate was the only one to still have a bird with a head.x That confirmed our suspicions!x It had fangs!x Amanda had us in hysterical laughter.x Neither of us could take our plates.x We sent it back for fish.x Kevin took a few bites.x I did sample his.x We agreed it wasn't very good, but it wasn't half "bat".
It was late and we needed a place to stay.x We found a hole called "The Fraternity".x Our room had a double bed, a bench, and a door to the shower.x The toilet was several rooms away.x We had no sink.x Kevin thought it a major bummer to have no mirror.x The place was really no worse than places I'd stayed at in Peru -- except for the mosquitoes.x I shut the door to the mosquito / cockroach infested shower.x It helped some.x Kevin had never slept in a place like it before.x His last comment before falling asleep was, "Do you think we'll be safe?"x We were safe from everything except possibly malaria.
The market was really so colorful.x I only wanted one mask.x I saw a neat one in a "closet" that this Moslem shopkeeper led me into.x He didn't want to let me out.x He was quite a salesman.x The mask started at 15,000 CFA.x By the time I had it to 5,000 CFA, he had it wrapped up for me but I wasn't finished bargaining.x I offered 4,500 CFA.x He unwrapped it, hung it up, led me from the closet, shut the door, and walked away in disgust.x I guess we both knew great bargaining tactics.x When I finally did buy the mask, Debbie passed by.x He told her I was too tight and his voice was tired.
YAMASSOUKROxxx It was amazing to see Yamassoukro, the sort of capital of the Ivory Coast.x It was the president's home town.x So, it was the capital and there were all sorts of beautiful new buildings.x However, nobody in the government wanted to live there.x In reality, Abidjan functioned as the capital.
We wanted to see the beautiful new basilica.x It didn't look like much of a walk -- but that was because the thing was so huge.x We walked forever and it felt twice as far as forever since we were carrying our loads.x When we eventually arrived (and we were beginning to think it was a mirage), we weren't allowed in because it was not completed.
We had planned on checking out the presidential sacred crocodiles but didn't want to walk anymore.x We enjoyed our Cokes and watched these kids play a game with bottle caps.x It was to see who could go the longest in one breath counting, " Bella, bella, bella . . ."
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This story has been posted in the following forums: : Headlines; COS - Ivory Coast; PCVs in the Field - Ivory Coast
PCOL2958
92
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My name is Donald (Don) Baskett. I was in IC I, from '62-'64. At that time there was a Cour Normal at Guiglo and I worked there both academic years.
Man was a treat to visit, isolated as was at Guiglo. A quick anecdote (I am almost timed out)
One Sunday in perhaps '63 I went to a match de football at Man with two of my African friends. I was the only Caucasian. Somewhere in there a baqarre broke out. My friend, the school's econome jumped from my side to conciliate or whatever. The other was a player. Funny feeling. Sorry, my time's up.
Don
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By Anonymous (213.42.2.10) on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 7:24 am: Edit Post |
I have been to the basilica after it opened!
I lived in IC 99-00, God how I miss that place. Funny to read someone elses experiences of that loverly country. I thought I had forgotten everything, but that was before I read your texts and realised that I have been on these places and remember them. I wish the country could settle down again so that I can visite it!
Anne 20yrs