Gina Ellena writes: Les, a Peace Corps volunteer, field supervisor Ed, and I flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara in a DC-3 where we sat along the fuselage facing a cargo of red chilies that stung eyes and noses



"For propriety's sake, Les and Ed went to the local batti (inn), where, with the purchase of a rice and lentils meal, one could sleep on the dirt floor for free. On the second level of the small municipal building I spread a poncho and two blankets on the floor for Hasmier, and placed my sleeping bag on the cot. After a week of sleeping in my clothes on a Pohkara Volunteer's floor, I resumed the practices of donning pajamas and setting my hair."

Gina Ellena writes: Les, a Peace Corps volunteer, field supervisor Ed, and I flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara in a DC-3 where we sat along the fuselage facing a cargo of red chilies that stung eyes and noses

Flashbacks from Here and There: Posted to Kusma

By GINA ELLENA

NEPAL, February, 1966 — Les, a Peace Corps volunteer, field supervisor Ed, and I flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara in a DC-3 where we sat along the fuselage facing a cargo of red chilies that stung eyes and noses.

We met up with Les' cook Hasmier and walked two days west to the Kali Gandhaki River gorge (and our teaching posts) along a rocky track that ascended and descended thousands of feet. On swaying suspension bridges we crossed rivers that rose in the Himalayas to the north.

The trail turned into Kusma's sole street, lined with red and white houses and open-fronted shops. The village had neither electricity nor running water, like most of Nepal at the time.

For propriety's sake, Les and Ed went to the local batti (inn), where, with the purchase of a rice and lentils meal, one could sleep on the dirt floor for free. On the second level of the small municipal building I spread a poncho and two blankets on the floor for Hasmier, and placed my sleeping bag on the cot. After a week of sleeping in my clothes on a Pohkara Volunteer's floor, I resumed the practices of donning pajamas and setting my hair.

Hasmier was fascinated: First, because she'd never known people to have special clothes to sleep in, and then there was the sight of my bumpy head, all bristling with curlers.

Up the ladder to our quarters climbed a man with a flashlight, smiling and staring. Another head appeared on the ladder. They conversed animatedly. "Is it a man or a woman?" one asked the other.

The next day Les, Ed and Hasmier set off for Les' post six miles and four hours farther on.

I explored my new home. The water supply was a natural spring a quarter-mile north of the village where I washed my sweater and tried conversing with the women filling brass or clay water jugs. They didn't like questions. In town I practiced Nepali language with the male shopkeepers and women grinding corn between hand-turned stones. People said how much better my Nepali was than Ted's or Bob's — Peace Corps engineers whom I hadn't met who were building a bridge somewhere.

At the village school where I was assigned I met the town's elected leader. The headmaster was in Kathmandu and not expected until August. The school had window frames, but no shutters. The roof was of metal sheets held down with stones. I was shown a room where 25 middle-schoolers sat on the dirt floor and waited for the teacher. None came. I told them a little of why I had come. They asked how much salary I received ($40 a month, a huge amount.). We practiced oral English drills and the time flew.

The next day was Nepal's Independence Day. I was told to walk at the front of the parade. We huzzahed up the bazaar to the spring, and back to the municipal building where speeches were spoken and we all threw flowers, rice and red tikka powder at the photo of King Mahendra.

School games scheduled for 11 began at 1. Girls were jumping rope, and I showed them some fancy steps. Boys tried bumping one another out of a circle while hopping on one foot and holding the other behind them. Village officials played musical chairs with the girls, a drum providing music. I left at 3:30 pleading other work, which I had: Hunting bedbugs with my Flit gun.

Next morning I walked through the bazaar with a clay jug. All along the way people exclaimed, "Oh, you're going to bring water. Oh, you can't! That's too heavy." I said I had to try. And, indeed, it was too heavy. I was all wet, and everyone was highly amused, but a little pleased, I think, at the attempt.

That evening, the most astonishing thing: The lively, intelligent woman who owned the inn was sitting on her dirt floor breastfeeding her two-month-old, when the baby spit up. She called over the family dog to clean the baby up.

Despite a gulf between us concerning the germ theory, the innkeeper and I became good friends.

Gina Ellena is writing a few Flashbacks From Here and There columns while husband Nick works on a book based on the columns. Nick is a retired reporter for the Enterprise-Record.

© 2006 Chico Enterprise-Record

When this story was posted in August 2006, this was on the front page of PCOL:




Peace Corps Online The Independent News Forum serving Returned Peace Corps Volunteers

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Peace Corps' Screening and Medical Clearance The purpose of Peace Corps' screening and medical clearance process is to ensure safe accommodation for applicants and minimize undue risk exposure for volunteers to allow PCVS to complete their service without compromising their entry health status. To further these goals, PCOL has obtained a copy of the Peace Corps Screening Guidelines Manual through the Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) and has posted it in the "Peace Corps Library." Applicants and Medical Professionals (especially those who have already served as volunteers) are urged to review the guidelines and leave their comments and suggestions. Then read the story of one RPCV's journey through medical screening and his suggestions for changes to the process.

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The Peace Corps Library The Peace Corps Library is now available online with over 40,000 index entries in 500 categories. Looking for a Returned Volunteer? Check our RPCV Directory or leave a message on our Bulletin Board. New: Sign up to receive our free Monthly Magazine by email, research the History of the Peace Corps, or sign up for a daily news summary of Peace Corps stories. FAQ: Visit our FAQ for more information about PCOL.

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Gates charity races to spend billions Warren E. Buffett’s gift of $31 billion to the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation means that for tax reasons, starting in 2009, the foundation must distribute $3 billion annually, or a little more than twice what it distributed last year. PCOL Comment: The Foundation says that "preventing the spread of HIV is the most durable long-term solution to the AIDS epidemic, and a top priority for the foundation." Peace Corps Volunteers and Returned Volunteers have been doing just that in AIDS Education for the past 15 years. Why not consider a $100M annual contribution to the Peace Corps to put 2,500 additional volunteers in the field to expand AIDS education worldwide?

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RPCV Ron Tschetter to head Peace Corps President Bush has nominated Ron Tschetter to serve as Director of the Peace Corps. Tschetter, 64, is the president of an investment firm based in Montana. He volunteered with his wife to work as family planning advisers in India and is a former Chairman of the National Peace Corps Association. PCOL Comment: Congratulations to the Bush administration for an inspired choice for Peace Corps Director. Ron Tschetter is not only an RPCV but was Chairman of the NPCA. Best wishes to Mr. Tschetter on his future tenure as Director of the Peace Corps. Latest: How Ron Tschetter was selected as Peace Corps Director.

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The Peace Corps is "fashionable" again The LA Times says that "the Peace Corps is booming again and "It's hard to know exactly what's behind the resurgence." PCOL Comment: Since the founding of the Peace Corps 45 years ago, Americans have answered Kennedy's call: "Ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man." Over 182,000 have served. Another 200,000 have applied and been unable to serve because of lack of Congressional funding. The Peace Corps has never gone out of fashion. It's Congress that hasn't been keeping pace.

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Support the US-Peruvian Trade Pact Peruvian President Alejandro Toledo, the Peace Corps President, has been lobbying both Democratic and Republican legislators to support the US-Peruvian trade pact before July 28, when his term ends and a US congressional recess begins. If President Bush fails to get approval before Congress goes on recess, it will be a case study proving that the United States does not reward its friends. Please call your representatives.

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July 20, 2006: This Week's Top Stories Friedman win could create new coalition 14 July Bellamy writes: G8 summit lacks results 19 July Peace Corps Fund Raiser in NYC on July 25 19 July Hodding Carter writes "Flushed" on plumbing 18 July Doyle places Peace Corps ad 18 July Matt Taylor releases CD "Subject to the Wind" 16 July Matthew Orosz builds reflective parabolic troughs 14 July RPCVs run organic HERB FARMacy 13 July Jerome Miliszkiewicz discusses Chavez in Venezuela 12 July Ric Haas founded the Fistula Foundation 11 July Susan Deller Ross helps women's equal rights 11 July Mark Maxam installs solar lighting in Kenya 11 July Eunice Kennedy Shriver at White House for 85th 11 July Hastings gives $1 million for charter schools 11 July Alejandro Toledo meets Bush in final days 11 July Hill is hopes to reconvene Korea talks 10 July "My World" takes Tanzanian children to Kilimanjaro 9 July Bob Watada supports his son in court-martial 8 July James Brunton Jr. builds boat for Embera Indians 8 July Tim Wilson sews the Seeds of Peace 8 July Petri says Guantanamo prisoners should 'face accusers' 7 Jul Tom Murphy cuts deal with feds 3 July

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Changing the Face of Hunger In his new book, Former Congressman Tony Hall (RPCV Thailand) says humanitarian aid is the most potent weapon the United States can deploy against terrorism. An evangelical Christian, he is a big believer in faith-based organizations in the fight against hunger. Members of Congress have recently recommended that Hall be appointed special envoy to Sudan to focus on ending the genocide in Darfur.

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PC will not return to East Timor in 2006 Volunteers serving in East Timor have safely left the country as a result of the recent civil unrest and government instability. Latest: The Peace Corps has informed us that at this time, the Peace Corps has no plans to re-enter the country in 2006. The Peace Corps recently sent a letter offering eligible volunteers the opportunity to reinstate their service in another country.

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Chris Dodd considers run for the White House Senator Chris Dodd plans to spend the next six to eight months raising money and reaching out to Democrats around the country to gauge his viability as a candidate. Just how far Dodd can go depends largely on his ability to reach Democrats looking for an alternative to Hillary Clinton. PCOL Comment: Dodd served as a Volunteer in the Dominican Republic and has been one of the strongest supporters of the Peace Corps in Congress.

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The RPCV who wrote about Ben Hogan Probably no RPCV has done more to further the Third Goal of the Peace Corps than John Coyne with the Peace Corps Writers web site and newsletter that he and Marian Haley Beil have produced since 1989. Now John returns to writing about his first love - golf in "The Caddie who knew Ben Hogan." Read an excerpt from his novel, an interview with the author and a schedule of his book readings in Maryland and DC this week.

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Vasquez testifies before Senate Committee Director Vasquez testifies before the Senate Foreign Relations Committee on his nomination as the new Representative to the United Nations Agencies for Food and Agriculture replacing Tony Hall. He has been the third longest serving Peace Corps Director after Loret Ruppe Miller and Sargent Shriver. PCOL Comment: Read our thanks to Director Vasquez for his service to the Peace Corps.

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First Amendment Watch Maine Web Report hit with Federal Lawsuit Website wins trademark suit against Jerry Falwell

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Peace Corps stonewalls on FOIA request The Ashland Daily Tidings reports that Peace Corps has blocked their request for information on the Volkart case. "After the Tidings requested information pertaining to why Volkart was denied the position — on March 2 — the newspaper received a letter from the Peace Corps FOIA officer stating the requested information was protected under an exemption of the act." The Dayton Daily News had similar problems with FOIA requests for their award winning series on Volunteer Safety and Security.

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PCOL readership increases 100% Monthly readership on "Peace Corps Online" has increased in the past twelve months to 350,000 visitors - over eleven thousand every day - a 100% increase since this time last year. Thanks again, RPCVs and Friends of the Peace Corps, for making PCOL your source of information for the Peace Corps community. And thanks for supporting the Peace Corps Library and History of the Peace Corps. Stay tuned, the best is yet to come.

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History of the Peace Corps PCOL is proud to announce that Phase One of the "History of the Peace Corps" is now available online. This installment includes over 5,000 pages of primary source documents from the archives of the Peace Corps including every issue of "Peace Corps News," "Peace Corps Times," "Peace Corps Volunteer," "Action Update," and every annual report of the Peace Corps to Congress since 1961. "Ask Not" is an ongoing project. Read how you can help.

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RPCV admits to abuse while in Peace Corps Timothy Ronald Obert has pleaded guilty to sexually abusing a minor in Costa Rica while serving there as a Peace Corps volunteer. "The Peace Corps has a zero tolerance policy for misconduct that violates the law or standards of conduct established by the Peace Corps," said Peace Corps Director Gaddi H. Vasquez. Could inadequate screening have been partly to blame? Mr. Obert's resume, which he had submitted to the Peace Corps in support of his application to become a Peace Corps Volunteer, showed that he had repeatedly sought and obtained positions working with underprivileged children. Read what RPCVs have to say about this case.

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Military Option sparks concerns The U.S. military, struggling to fill its voluntary ranks, is allowing recruits to meet part of their reserve military obligations after active duty by serving in the Peace Corps. Read why there is opposition to the program among RPCVs. Director Vasquez says the agency has a long history of accepting qualified applicants who are in inactive military status. John Coyne says "Not only no, but hell no!" and RPCV Chris Matthews leads the debate on "Hardball." Avi Spiegel says Peace Corps is not the place for soldiers while Coleman McCarthy says to Welcome Soldiers to the Peace Corps. Read our poll results. Latest: Congress passed a bill on December 22 including language to remove Peace Corps from the National Call to Service (NCS) military recruitment program

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Why blurring the lines puts PCVs in danger When the National Call to Service legislation was amended to include Peace Corps in December of 2002, this country had not yet invaded Iraq and was not in prolonged military engagement in the Middle East, as it is now. Read the story of how one volunteer spent three years in captivity from 1976 to 1980 as the hostage of a insurrection group in Colombia in Joanne Marie Roll's op-ed on why this legislation may put soldier/PCVs in the same kind of danger. Latest: Read the ongoing dialog on the subject.

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