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Review of Portalnd's Andian Restaurant run by son of Peru RPCV John Platt
Review of Portalnd's Andian Restaurant run by son of Peru RPCV John Platt
Diner 2004: Andina
04/23/04 from The Oregonian's Diner
The kitchen at this upscale young Peruvian restaurant is generating some genuine heat. Sophisticated and playful, it's turning out consistently fascinating flavors and some of the most gorgeous presentations in town. Executive chef Emmanuel Piqueras Villaran has hit his stride, deftly redefining Andean tradition by thinking in fresh ways about key ingredients such as hot peppers, corn nuggets, quinoa, lime and cilantro. From beef-heart shish kebabs to spectacular seafoods to the city's best seviches (they stew in lime juice so briefly it's like a whisper), the food here is more than simply satisfying: It's exciting. When Andina stumbles, it's almost always in the service, not the kitchen.
Cuisine: Progressive and traditional Peruvian, reflecting the country's native, European, Japanese and Chinese influences.
Atmosphere: A big, warm, earth-toned space with a busy bar that often has live Latin music and a large dining room decorated tastefully with Peruvian art and crafts.
Menu: Nine entrees ($15-$27); about 25 appetizers, small plates and salads ($6.50-$15); seven desserts ($5-$6.50).
On the cheap: Dinner can get spendy. Stick with small plates or hit happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday: excellent $2 appetizers with a one-drink minimum per customer.
Must-have dishes: Seviches and sashimi-like tiraditos are outstanding. So is a dish of thick rounds of citrusy scholar fish with cool, mango-tinged ravioli. Desserts are like cumulus clouds of tropical fruit.
Reason to go: Nobody else in town is doing anything like this.
Drawbacks: The front of the house is rocky. Service can be warm and professional one day, uninformed another, pushy a third. And the place can overbook. On a recent Saturday night, an 8 p.m. reservation turned into a 45-minute heel-cooling at the bar before a table opened up -- a frustrating, unacceptable delay.
Hours: Lunch -- 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon-Fri; dinner -- 5:30-9 p.m. Tue-Thu, 4:30-10 p.m. Fri-Sat.
Extras: Full bar; Visa, Mastercard, American Express; disabled access; street parking; no smoking.
The numbers: 1314 N.W. Glisan St.; 503-228-9535. -- Bob Hicks