July 1, 2004: Headlines: COS - China: Return to our Country of Service - China: China Business Review: Russell E. Kratzer consoled himself with the thought that he was headed to the much less crowded Tianshui, Gansu, where he taught English as a Peace Corps volunteer from 2000 to 2002

Peace Corps Online: Directory: China: Peace Corps China : The Peace Corps in China: July 1, 2004: Headlines: COS - China: Return to our Country of Service - China: China Business Review: Russell E. Kratzer consoled himself with the thought that he was headed to the much less crowded Tianshui, Gansu, where he taught English as a Peace Corps volunteer from 2000 to 2002

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Russell E. Kratzer consoled himself with the thought that he was headed to the much less crowded Tianshui, Gansu, where he taught English as a Peace Corps volunteer from 2000 to 2002

Russell E. Kratzer consoled himself with the thought that he was headed to the much less crowded Tianshui, Gansu, where he taught English as a Peace Corps volunteer from 2000 to 2002

Russell E. Kratzer consoled himself with the thought that he was headed to the much less crowded Tianshui, Gansu, where he taught English as a Peace Corps volunteer from 2000 to 2002

A GANSU HOMECOMING

Jul 1, 2004

The China Business Review

by Russell E. Kratzer

A once-sleepy province is waking up

When I arrived at the Shanghai train station on a cold February day, it seemed that half of the city's 15 million people had gathered in front of the entrance, and everyone was struggling to be first through the gate. I was about to begin a 27-hour train ride, and I was in no mood to fight the crowds heading home for China's Spring Festival. I consoled myself with the thought that I was headed to the much less crowded Tianshui, Gansu, where I taught English as a Peace Corps volunteer from 2000 to 2002.

As the train approached the Tianshui station, my excitement grew. Nearly two years had passed since I left Tianshui, and I was looking forward to visiting old friends and seeing how much the city had changed. When the train finally arrived at the station, my basketball buddies Lei Tianbin (Chuck), Lu Duowen (Jimmy), and Li Wenjun (Lee) were waiting for me on the platform, warmly welcoming me back to Tianshui. Although it was already past midnight, we went downtown to eat roasted lamb, drink local beer, and remember the good old days.

My week in Tianshui was similarly filled with food and conversations with old friends. My former supervisor, Ma Xiangming, treated me to hand-pulled noodles and briefed me on his new projects at the university's international exchange department. My former next-door neighbor, Zhao Feiyi, discussed his doctoral research with me while his daughter bounced in his lap. She seemed wary of my blue eyes and red hair, but I tried to calm her fears by reminding her that I had held her the day after she was born. Jiang Bingsheng, an English department colleague, took me to a hot-pot restaurant. I had made certain to bring some American chocolate for his son, who is a big fan of Hershey bars.

Between meals and conversations with these friends, I took time to explore the downtown area and acquaint myself with the new Tianshui.

Like the young students I taught, Tianshui seems to be a young city growing into a confident adult and finding its place in the world. The second-largest city in Gansu, Tianshui has grown over the past 15 years from a poor backwater into a modestly prosperous city with a thriving middle class.

The changes just since my departure two years ago were immediately visible: Across from the city's main square, an upscale shopping plaza has replaced a run-down lot where miscellaneous vendors had set up shop. The city government also widened some of the streets and established clearer bike paths and sidewalks. It even installed exercise equipment on the sidewalks of Tianshui- while running errands, passersby can do a few pull-ups or run on a low-tech treadmill painted fluorescent pink. all of these changes invoke a sense that the city is becoming more organized and is trying to provide a more comfortable environment for its citizens.

The government has also made significant improvements to Tianshui's transportation system. First, it added a traffic light to the busiest intersection in town. When I lived in Tianshui, there were only a couple traffic lights, and they were not necessarily at the busiest intersections. The government has also added timers and pedestrian crossings. Though many drivers and pedestrians are reluctant to obey the traffic signals, such additions demonstrate the government's commitment to improving traffic control. Now Tianshui even has highly visible street signs that contain pinyin so foreigners can easily navigate the streets.

Perhaps the most welcome change is to the bus system. In the city center, old poles with rusted signs marking the bus stops have been replaced by new bus shelters. The city also purchased a fleet of new buses, a very welcome change for me. At 6';3'', I used to have to bend my knees and tilt my neck about 45 degrees to avoid hitting my head on the bus ceiling. But on the new and improved No. 2 bus, even when I stood on my tiptoes, I was in no danger of hitting my head. Now that's progress!

Cell phones have invaded the city. When I left Tianshui in the summer of 2002, mobile phones were few and far between. But upon my return, I stepped off the bus in the town's main square to find myself staring at China Mobile advertisements at each corner. These gigantic blue-and-white billboards loom over the citizens of Tianshui, urging them to buy cell phones or more minutes. Walking down the street, I lost track of the number of stores and kiosks selling cell phone recharge cards and accessories. Four years ago only wealthy Tianshui citizens would contemplate buying a cell phone; now even the cabbage-and-tomato vendor carries one.

There are still reminders that Tianshui has some catching up to do. Despite the ubiquity of cell phones and China Mobile kiosks, I was disappointed to discover that there was no way to add minutes to my phone, which I had bought in Shanghai. China Mobile only sells cards for local accounts in Tianshui. Perhaps this problem will be solved before I make my next trip to Gansu.

As I rode the train back east to Shanghai, I digested the sights and sounds of my trip and tried to imagine how much more Tianshui would change before my next visit. I hope that by then the city will have an airport, so I won't have to take another long train ride to find out.

Russell E. Kratzer is studying Chinese at Fudan University in Shanghai.

Copyright U.S.-China Business Council Jul/Aug 2004





When this story was prepared, here was the front page of PCOL magazine:

This Month's Issue: August 2004 This Month's Issue: August 2004
Teresa Heinz Kerry celebrates the Peace Corps Volunteer as one of the best faces America has ever projected in a speech to the Democratic Convention. The National Review disagreed and said that Heinz's celebration of the PCV was "truly offensive." What's your opinion and who can come up with the funniest caption for our Current Events Funny?

Exclusive: Director Vasquez speaks out in an op-ed published exclusively on the web by Peace Corps Online saying the Dayton Daily News' portrayal of Peace Corps "doesn't jibe with facts."

In other news, the NPCA makes the case for improving governance and explains the challenges facing the organization, RPCV Bob Shaconis says Peace Corps has been a "sacred cow", RPCV Shaun McNally picks up support for his Aug 10 primary and has a plan to win in Connecticut, and the movie "Open Water" based on the negligent deaths of two RPCVs in Australia opens August 6. Op-ed's by RPCVs: Cops of the World is not a good goal and Peace Corps must emphasize community development.


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Story Source: China Business Review

This story has been posted in the following forums: : Headlines; COS - China; Return to our Country of Service - China

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