Togo RPCV Marco Werman reports on a solar eclipse in Libya: a country seeking acceptance



Those 10,000 eclipse chasers who arrived in the country with Werman have already set up camp on the desert plateau, pitching their tents and assembling their astronomical gear. The scene puts you in mind of the annual Burning Man Festival in the Nevada desert or perhaps something altogether more biblical. Never mind that Werman was shunned by a Libyan society too nervous or nannied to talk -- the celestial stage was set for something far more mind-blowing. As the big moment approaches, a reverent hush falls over the crowd: "Oh, my God, it's total eclipse," swoons Werman, relaying the event to his radio show, The World, back in the United States. "The moon has just covered the sun -- you can look directly at it. Gossamer waves of light are shooting out from the sides, and all around me are sunsets."

Togo RPCV Marco Werman reports on a solar eclipse in Libya: a country seeking acceptance

Libya: Out of the Shadow

A solar eclipse in a country seeking acceptance

BY Marco Werman
August 03, 2006

Caption: Total Solar Eclipse - Wednesday 29 March 2006, Results from Bir al-Ghabi site in Libya, 30º56'N 24º 25'E Photo: Paul Coleman

Libya is not the first place that springs to mind as a hot-ticket destination. But much has changed in the country in recent years. In 2003, after decades of economic sanctions and living in the political wilderness, Colonel Muammar Gaddafi gave up his weapons of mass destruction and finally took responsibility for Pan-Am Flight 103, which was brought down by Libyan terrorists in 1988 over Lockerbie, Scotland. The world cracked the faintest smile in Libya's direction, and the former pariah began to emerge from its isolation. Nowadays Lonely Planet sells guidebooks to Libya, and such is the cult of personality of the country's longtime leader that the English National Opera is staging Gaddafi the opera in London next month.

All of which brings us to this week's Rough Cut, Libya: Out of the Shadow. Who better to explore the mysteries of present-day Libya than our roving world-music reporter Marco Werman? And what better way to get inside the country than to tag along with the 10,000 astronomy enthusiasts who descended on Libya earlier this year to watch the solar eclipse?

"I wanted to go to Libya," explains Werman, "but it was still hard to get press visas to cover anything -- music or politics. The eclipse was my way in."

After arriving in Libya, having been turned down for interviews with any Libyan officials, including Gaddafi, Werman spends three days in Tripoli trying to find out something -- anything -- about what Libyans think. Roaming through the bazaars, tea shops and Byzantine alleyways of the capital, with a government minder in tow, Werman gets to work. "Can I ask you a few questions for radio?" he asks, microphone in hand. "I'm from Americano radio in the United States. ... Hello. ... Do you speak English?" Werman implores as merchants duck inside their storefronts. "I am sorry, I don't speak English," comes the standard reply, delivered in impeccable English every time.

So how does a reporter report on the political and cultural changes under way in a country if none of its citizens will talk to him? Well, the answer is he doesn't. Instead, he retires to the nearest cafe to smoke some "hubbly bubbly." Cameraman and producer John MacGibbon (the editor who designed FRONTLINE/World's distinctive on-air look) captures Werman enjoying rather a lot of this activity to sooth his reporter nerves.

"It's actually calming me down quite a bit, considering it's just tobacco," says Werman, the embers of apple and mint glowing from a giant water pipe.

When Werman finally does come across someone at an outdoor cafe who is willing to talk about life in Libya, he seizes the moment. "You want to be like a human?" Werman asks, to make sure he heard the young man's complaint correctly. "And you don't think you're a human here in Libya?" "No one is hearing my voice," the man laments. And sure enough, seconds later, the minder shuts down the conversation.

Undeterred, our reporter heads to the annual international trade expo in town, surely an opportunity to get some pointers on Libya's newfound "openness." It's the first expo since 1979 at which a U.S. contingent is present, and it's a big deal for Libyans. Rows of children stand waving American flags, marching brass bands add to the pomp, and the logos of Coca Cola, Chevron and FedEx loom large -- the country appears open for business, at least. Werman waits patiently outside the cordoned-off American pavilion, where Libya's prime minister is supposed to show up. But he never does.

"Oh, well, there's always the eclipse," you can feel Werman telling himself after another evening passes without an interview. The next morning, leaving Tripoli behind, Werman takes a flight south from the Mediterranean coast. Passing over hundreds of miles of sand dunes and date plantations, he finally arrives in the town of Jalu in the Sahara Desert.

Those 10,000 eclipse chasers who arrived in the country with Werman have already set up camp on the desert plateau, pitching their tents and assembling their astronomical gear. The scene puts you in mind of the annual Burning Man Festival in the Nevada desert or perhaps something altogether more biblical. Never mind that Werman was shunned by a Libyan society too nervous or nannied to talk -- the celestial stage was set for something far more mind-blowing.

As the big moment approaches, a reverent hush falls over the crowd: "Oh, my God, it's total eclipse," swoons Werman, relaying the event to his radio show, The World, back in the United States. "The moon has just covered the sun -- you can look directly at it. Gossamer waves of light are shooting out from the sides, and all around me are sunsets."

"It's just incredible," says Werman, almost at a loss for words.

To see it for yourself, click on the video and enjoy the show!

Jackie Bennion
Senior Interactive Producer

When this story was posted in August 2006, this was on the front page of PCOL:




Peace Corps Online The Independent News Forum serving Returned Peace Corps Volunteers

---

RPCV Ron Tschetter to head Peace Corps President Bush has nominated Ron Tschetter to serve as Director of the Peace Corps. Tschetter, 64, is the president of an investment firm based in Montana. He volunteered with his wife to work as family planning advisers in India and is a former Chairman of the National Peace Corps Association. PCOL Comment: Congratulations to the Bush administration for an inspired choice for Peace Corps Director. Ron Tschetter is not only an RPCV but was Chairman of the NPCA. Best wishes to Mr. Tschetter on his future tenure as Director of the Peace Corps. Latest: How Ron Tschetter was selected as Peace Corps Director.

---

---

The Peace Corps is "fashionable" again The LA Times says that "the Peace Corps is booming again and "It's hard to know exactly what's behind the resurgence." PCOL Comment: Since the founding of the Peace Corps 45 years ago, Americans have answered Kennedy's call: "Ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man." Over 182,000 have served. Another 200,000 have applied and been unable to serve because of lack of Congressional funding. The Peace Corps has never gone out of fashion. It's Congress that hasn't been keeping pace.

---

The Peace Corps Library The Peace Corps Library is now available online with over 40,000 index entries in 500 categories. Looking for a Returned Volunteer? Check our RPCV Directory or leave a message on our Bulletin Board. New: Sign up to receive our free Monthly Magazine by email, research the History of the Peace Corps, or sign up for a daily news summary of Peace Corps stories. FAQ: Visit our FAQ for more information about PCOL.

---

Support the US-Peruvian Trade Pact Peruvian President Alejandro Toledo, the Peace Corps President, has been lobbying both Democratic and Republican legislators to support the US-Peruvian trade pact before July 28, when his term ends and a US congressional recess begins. If President Bush fails to get approval before Congress goes on recess, it will be a case study proving that the United States does not reward its friends. Please call your representatives.

---

July 20, 2006: This Week's Top Stories Friedman win could create new coalition 14 July Bellamy writes: G8 summit lacks results 19 July Peace Corps Fund Raiser in NYC on July 25 19 July Hodding Carter writes "Flushed" on plumbing 18 July Doyle places Peace Corps ad 18 July Matt Taylor releases CD "Subject to the Wind" 16 July Matthew Orosz builds reflective parabolic troughs 14 July RPCVs run organic HERB FARMacy 13 July Jerome Miliszkiewicz discusses Chavez in Venezuela 12 July Ric Haas founded the Fistula Foundation 11 July Susan Deller Ross helps women's equal rights 11 July Mark Maxam installs solar lighting in Kenya 11 July Eunice Kennedy Shriver at White House for 85th 11 July Hastings gives $1 million for charter schools 11 July Alejandro Toledo meets Bush in final days 11 July Hill is hopes to reconvene Korea talks 10 July "My World" takes Tanzanian children to Kilimanjaro 9 July Bob Watada supports his son in court-martial 8 July James Brunton Jr. builds boat for Embera Indians 8 July Tim Wilson sews the Seeds of Peace 8 July Petri says Guantanamo prisoners should 'face accusers' 7 Jul Tom Murphy cuts deal with feds 3 July

---

Jody Olsen will be acting Peace Corps Director The Senate confirmed Gaddi Vasquez to head the FAO on June 30. Jody Olsen will be acting Director until the President makes a permanent appointment. Olsen has been Deputy Director of the Peace Corps since 2002. She served in Tunisia as a PCV. Latest: "As of now (July 20), Gaddi Vasquez is still the Peace Corps Director."

---

Changing the Face of Hunger In his new book, Former Congressman Tony Hall (RPCV Thailand) says humanitarian aid is the most potent weapon the United States can deploy against terrorism. An evangelical Christian, he is a big believer in faith-based organizations in the fight against hunger. Members of Congress have recently recommended that Hall be appointed special envoy to Sudan to focus on ending the genocide in Darfur.

---

PC will not return to East Timor in 2006 Volunteers serving in East Timor have safely left the country as a result of the recent civil unrest and government instability. Latest: The Peace Corps has informed us that at this time, the Peace Corps has no plans to re-enter the country in 2006. The Peace Corps recently sent a letter offering eligible volunteers the opportunity to reinstate their service in another country.

---

Chris Dodd considers run for the White House Senator Chris Dodd plans to spend the next six to eight months raising money and reaching out to Democrats around the country to gauge his viability as a candidate. Just how far Dodd can go depends largely on his ability to reach Democrats looking for an alternative to Hillary Clinton. PCOL Comment: Dodd served as a Volunteer in the Dominican Republic and has been one of the strongest supporters of the Peace Corps in Congress.

---

The RPCV who wrote about Ben Hogan Probably no RPCV has done more to further the Third Goal of the Peace Corps than John Coyne with the Peace Corps Writers web site and newsletter that he and Marian Haley Beil have produced since 1989. Now John returns to writing about his first love - golf in "The Caddie who knew Ben Hogan." Read an excerpt from his novel, an interview with the author and a schedule of his book readings in Maryland and DC this week.

---

Vasquez testifies before Senate Committee Director Vasquez testifies before the Senate Foreign Relations Committee on his nomination as the new Representative to the United Nations Agencies for Food and Agriculture replacing Tony Hall. He has been the third longest serving Peace Corps Director after Loret Ruppe Miller and Sargent Shriver. PCOL Comment: Read our thanks to Director Vasquez for his service to the Peace Corps.

---

First Amendment Watch Maine Web Report hit with Federal Lawsuit Website wins trademark suit against Jerry Falwell

---

Interview with a Hit Man RPCV John Perkins says that for many years he was an "economic hit man" in the world of international finance whose primary job was to convince less developed countries to accept multibillion dollar loans for infrastructure projects that left the recipient countries wallowing in debt and highly vulnerable to outside political and commercial interests. In this exclusive interview for "Peace Corps Online," Colombia RPCV Joanne Roll, author of Remember with Honor, talks to Perkins about his Peace Corps service, his relation with the NSA, "colonization" in Ecuador, the consequences of his work, why he decided to speak out, and what his hopes are for change.

---

PC Program in Chad temporarily suspended Director Vasquez announced the temporary suspension of the Peace Corps program in Chad on April 14 and that all 29 Peace Corps volunteers have left the country. With a program dating back forty years (See Page 4 of the April 1966 "Peace Corps Volunteer"), RPCVs hope that volunteers can return to Chad as soon as the situation has stabilized. Congratulations to the Peace Corps for handling the suspension quickly and professionally.

---

Peace Corps stonewalls on FOIA request The Ashland Daily Tidings reports that Peace Corps has blocked their request for information on the Volkart case. "After the Tidings requested information pertaining to why Volkart was denied the position — on March 2 — the newspaper received a letter from the Peace Corps FOIA officer stating the requested information was protected under an exemption of the act." The Dayton Daily News had similar problems with FOIA requests for their award winning series on Volunteer Safety and Security.

---

PCOL readership increases 100% Monthly readership on "Peace Corps Online" has increased in the past twelve months to 350,000 visitors - over eleven thousand every day - a 100% increase since this time last year. Thanks again, RPCVs and Friends of the Peace Corps, for making PCOL your source of information for the Peace Corps community. And thanks for supporting the Peace Corps Library and History of the Peace Corps. Stay tuned, the best is yet to come.

---

History of the Peace Corps PCOL is proud to announce that Phase One of the "History of the Peace Corps" is now available online. This installment includes over 5,000 pages of primary source documents from the archives of the Peace Corps including every issue of "Peace Corps News," "Peace Corps Times," "Peace Corps Volunteer," "Action Update," and every annual report of the Peace Corps to Congress since 1961. "Ask Not" is an ongoing project. Read how you can help.

---

RPCV admits to abuse while in Peace Corps Timothy Ronald Obert has pleaded guilty to sexually abusing a minor in Costa Rica while serving there as a Peace Corps volunteer. "The Peace Corps has a zero tolerance policy for misconduct that violates the law or standards of conduct established by the Peace Corps," said Peace Corps Director Gaddi H. Vasquez. Could inadequate screening have been partly to blame? Mr. Obert's resume, which he had submitted to the Peace Corps in support of his application to become a Peace Corps Volunteer, showed that he had repeatedly sought and obtained positions working with underprivileged children. Read what RPCVs have to say about this case.

---

Military Option sparks concerns The U.S. military, struggling to fill its voluntary ranks, is allowing recruits to meet part of their reserve military obligations after active duty by serving in the Peace Corps. Read why there is opposition to the program among RPCVs. Director Vasquez says the agency has a long history of accepting qualified applicants who are in inactive military status. John Coyne says "Not only no, but hell no!" and RPCV Chris Matthews leads the debate on "Hardball." Avi Spiegel says Peace Corps is not the place for soldiers while Coleman McCarthy says to Welcome Soldiers to the Peace Corps. Read our poll results. Latest: Congress passed a bill on December 22 including language to remove Peace Corps from the National Call to Service (NCS) military recruitment program

---

Why blurring the lines puts PCVs in danger When the National Call to Service legislation was amended to include Peace Corps in December of 2002, this country had not yet invaded Iraq and was not in prolonged military engagement in the Middle East, as it is now. Read the story of how one volunteer spent three years in captivity from 1976 to 1980 as the hostage of a insurrection group in Colombia in Joanne Marie Roll's op-ed on why this legislation may put soldier/PCVs in the same kind of danger. Latest: Read the ongoing dialog on the subject.

Read the stories and leave your comments.