2007.02.21: February 21, 2007: Headlines: COS - Brazil: return to our Country of Service - Brazil: Winfield Courier: Dave and Callie Seaton return to Muqui where they served as Peace Corps Volunteers in Brazil in 1962 and 1963
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2007.02.21: February 21, 2007: Headlines: COS - Brazil: return to our Country of Service - Brazil: Winfield Courier: Dave and Callie Seaton return to Muqui where they served as Peace Corps Volunteers in Brazil in 1962 and 1963
Dave and Callie Seaton return to Muqui where they served as Peace Corps Volunteers in Brazil in 1962 and 1963
"When my family and I traveled there in 1999, I had been disappointed that the town seemed to be in decline. The main street was quiet. Students were leaving the once-distinguished high school to study in the nearby city of Cachoeiro de Itapemirim. Old friends said they felt isolated in Muqui. Last week, I was pleased to find Muqui much more vital. Two new neighborhoods had sprung up, each with about 100 modest new homes. The main street was filled with cars, motorcycles, trucks and shoppers. A low-power television station was operating at city hall. The streets of a former favela (hillside slum), where we helped build a school, had been paved with hand-laid tiles."
Dave and Callie Seaton return to Muqui where they served as Peace Corps Volunteers in Brazil in 1962 and 1963
Living with the past in rural Brazil - and Kansas
By DAVE SEATON
Publisher
I returned last weekend from a quick trip to Brazil.
My wife, Callie, and I have old friends in the town where we served as Peace Corps volunteers in 1962 and 1963.
At that time, Ary Caido Fraga, a cattle rancher and coffee farmer, was mayor of Muqui, pop. about 5,000. Muqui is the seat of a county the size of Cowley County, located in the coastal state of Espirito Santo some 200 miles north of Rio de Janeiro.
Ary and his wife, Anna, are members of Muqui's most distinguished family. They were our hosts and mentors as we worked to expand a school lunch program into the countryside.
On my recent visit, I was pleased to see how Muqui had changed.
When my family and I traveled there in 1999, I had been disappointed that the town seemed to be in decline. The main street was quiet. Students were leaving the once-distinguished high school to study in the nearby city of Cachoeiro de Itapemirim. Old friends said they felt isolated in Muqui.
Last week, I was pleased to find Muqui much more vital.
Two new neighborhoods had sprung up, each with about 100 modest new homes. The main street was filled with cars, motorcycles, trucks and shoppers. A low-power television station was operating at city hall. The streets of a former favela (hillside slum), where we helped build a school, had been paved with hand-laid tiles.
The whole aspect of the town was upbeat.
It was, indeed, Carnival, the time when Muqui celebrates for several days with artificial cows, colorfully decorated atop light poles downtown. Muquienses come home from the cities to which they have migrated and celebrate with their friends and families.
Coming home
If all this sounds familiar to life in Winfield and rural Kansas, it is.
Looking back on my recent visit to Brazil, I am stunned by the similarities between Muqui and Winfield.
Muqui was settled in the 1870s, as was Winfield. Before the Great Depression of the 1930s, Muqui boomed on coffee, as Winfield did on oil. Now Muqui is going through what many rural towns in this country experienced in the middle of the 20th century, as people leave the land to settle in towns where they have better services.
Today there is an effort in Muqui to recall the community's glorious past. Like Winfield, Muqui is a town of music. A recent article in a Brazilian tourist magazine says Muqui claims to have more pianos per capita than any other municipality in Brazil. (Remember the 100 "mass pianos" at Winfield High School in the 1950s?)
Professora Maria Jose Macedo Furtado was apparently the Dr. E. Marie Burdette - the long-time, revered piano teacher - of Muqui.
Like Winfield, Muqui is known for its festivals.
The March of Kings, a traditional religious festival imported from Portugal, recently drew 10,000 people to Muqui, according to the fall 2006 edition of Natural magazine. The Festival of St. John, the town's patron saint, brings hundreds to Muqui each June 24.
Folklore and the fine arts are said to flourish in Muqui. Elegant town houses are being restored, many of them built in the early 20th century for coffee-growers who moved to town so their children could go to school.
Now many rural students are bussed to school in town. Most one-room rural schoolhouses are closed.
It was at those one-room schools that Callie and I worked with the landowners to provide lunches to attract the children of landless peasant workers to class. Fortunately, with the help of our allies, we were able to double to 34 the number of rural schools where Food for Peace commodities were served.
Looking back, I have to give credit for our success to Ary.
It was he who introduced us to the powerful landowners, many of whom were his relatives. It was he who thought of recruiting the landowners' daughters to become teachers - so the instructor would be at school every day, instead of finding an excuse to stay in town. It was he who introduced us to Padre Pedro, a beloved Catholic priest, a Spaniard, who fathered nearly everything progressive in Muqui during our time there.
Now in their early 80s, Ary and Anna live on the same street in the neighborhood of Good Hope where they have always lived. They often travel the 120 miles to Vitoria, the state capital, for medical care at a free, public hospital. Their son, Ed, and daughter, Gracia, and their families live in Vitoria, a fast-growing, seaside city sometimes called "the Poor Man's Rio."
If there is a lesson in all this, it is that small, rural communities can, indeed, revitalize themselves by looking back to their own colorful pasts. This seems to me especially true when a community such as Muqui - or Winfield - has enjoyed earlier wealth and distinction.
When you look around, of course, you can see that most rural communities have a colorful past, often a glorious one. The job of reclaiming the energy of that past may be tough, but just taking it on can brighten attitudes and bring hope to what might otherwise be considered just another lackluster country town.
Links to Related Topics (Tags):
Headlines: February, 2007; Peace Corps Brazil; Directory of Brazil RPCVs; Messages and Announcements for Brazil RPCVs; Return to our Country of Service - Brazil
When this story was posted in April 2007, this was on the front page of PCOL:
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Story Source: Winfield Courier
This story has been posted in the following forums: : Headlines; COS - Brazil; return to our Country of Service - Brazil
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