2008.07.25: July 25, 2008: Headlines: COS - Armenia: COS - Turkey: Genocide: PCOL Exclusive: Matthew A. Hamilton writes: A Shadow on Ararat

Peace Corps Online: Directory: Armenia: Peace Corps Armenia : Peace Corps Armenia: Newest Stories: 2008.07.25: July 25, 2008: Headlines: COS - Armenia: COS - Turkey: Genocide: PCOL Exclusive: Matthew A. Hamilton writes: A Shadow on Ararat

By Admin1 (admin) (70.243.122.110) on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 11:25 am: Edit Post

Matthew A. Hamilton writes: A Shadow on Ararat

Matthew A. Hamilton writes: A Shadow on Ararat

What has living in an Armenian village taught me? How will it influence the rest of my life? Rural living has taught me much. It has taught me the simple things like how to till a garden and herd cows. It has taught me that life is not always easy and convenient—running out to the outhouse at six in the morning in the bitter cold is not fun at all. But most importantly, the village has taught me the importance of history and why it should always be remembered. History influences our lives and helps us to understand our past. It directs out future. It helps us understand who we are and where we are going. Thoughts on the Armenian genocide often race through my head. I am like a shadow on Ararat, always struggling to find the truths of history, to understand why Turkey will not admit to the atrocities that occurred almost a century ago. But most of all, I am searching for reconciliation so that the slaughter of innocents may never happen again. The Turkish government needs to put a ceasefire to their fiery rhetoric. They need to understand the crimes that their predecessors committed so long ago. Armenians need to heal their emotional past and start looking for a brighter future. They need to decide where they are going. In short, Turkey and Armenia need to find reconciliation. They need to become friends. Like the Armenians, I will never forget the genocide. Maybe one day everyone else will remember, too.

Matthew A. Hamilton writes: A Shadow on Ararat

A Shadow on Ararat

7/25/2008

Matthew A. Hamilton

Armenia, August 15, 2006.

Caption: My house in the Village of Getk, Armenia

As the Peace Corps driver turned off the highway toward my site, his white Ford Blazer popping up and down on a dry and dusty road full of holes, I thought about my previous three months as a Peace Corps trainee English teacher and how I was going to apply all that I had learned from Peace Corps trainers to Armenian students who had never met an American. I wondered how I would to give any hope to a people who had experienced so many challenges and adversities: genocide, earthquakes, and war.

I was in a country I knew little about. I was not fluent in the language. I could only piece together a few words and phrases, mostly about the weather and food.

As the driver pulled up to the house where I was going to live for the next two years of my life, my host family eagerly awaiting my arrival, I gazed across a land that was behind modernity: people riding horses and wagons and tilling soil by hand; the stench of cows and pigs; chickens and outhouses; some days without running water; a people as rigid as the land itself, hardened and resilient like the peaks of Ararat.

I’m a city boy. Never had I used an outhouse before or worked on a farm. I had always lived with running water and warm showers.

I thought rural living was going to be the toughest challenge for me. But then I learned of the Armenian genocide. I never learned about it in school; not even in college as a history major. Studying about it changed me. It cut me deeper than any sharp garden tool. An outhouse and lack of water was not an inconvenience for me after listening to stories from Valia, my host mother.

I lived in a village of about 600 people in the North-West region of Armenia. The roads were mostly flat and during the summer and fall, they were surrounded by gardens full of tomatoes and cucumbers and fields peppered with cabbages and potatoes. Close by, the Achulian River pushed along the Turkish border, then veined out into irrigation ditches and feeds the village gardens. Winter brought the stillness of time and a frozen river, a blanket of snow and ice that covered the past and hoped for a better future.

Like most volunteers, I was eager to make a good impression with my community. I socialized with the teachers at my school as much as possible and after classes ended for the day, I played soccer with the students or told them stories about life in America. But playing soccer and telling stories was short lived, only allowed for one hour. Everyone had their chores to do, including me.

Peace Corps Online

Caption: My host family in Armenia

My host family was adamant about keeping a proper house. Valia, taught me things like how to wash clothes by hand and how to shake out a carpet and how to clean out the wood burning stove. Rahim, her husband, taught me how to till soil by hand, look for grub worms that were a danger to the potatoes, how to quickly remove sunflower seeds from their pods, and how to train a cow or pig by hitting them with a stick.

I preferred to work in the garden. Rahim smiled for my willingness to do so. I ignored the blisters that formed on my hands and worked until they popped. Rahim insisted that I wear gloves, but I always refused. I never saw a villager wear gloves and I wanted to integrate with the village community as much as possible. A culture that has suffered so much and has overcome so many adversities, the least I could do was to bleed a little bit for my labor. “My hands will toughen up eventually,” I told him.

One afternoon in October, during the potato harvest, storm clouds blew in like dark smoke bellowing from a dragon’s nostrils. Behind them was the pink fire of lightning. Rahim and I had to work quickly; otherwise, the rain would have caused the potatoes to rot.

And the rain came and our hands dug into the thick mud. The thunder rolled and the lightning crashed and the clouds swallowed the light.

“Go in the house,” Rahim said. “I’ll finish.”

“No,” I retorted, the cold, goose pimpled rain and wind smacking me in the face, steam bellowing from my frozen lungs. I was like the sky itself, tough and ambitious. “I’m staying and helping. We’re almost finished.”

He didn’t argue. I stayed and helped him finish, mud caking our hands with every potato we pulled up, both of us wet and cold and dirty, yet satisfied and happy with the work we were doing.

After collecting all of the potatoes, we covered them with a tarp and went inside for dinner. The smell of borshch filled my nostrils as I opened the door. We went to the sink to wash up and then changed into some dry clothes. By the time we were finished, Valia had the table set and scooping warm soap into our bowls.

We ate in silence, an occasional slurp echoing through the room. The electricity was knocked out by the storm, too, so the only light we had was from a candle in the center of the table. It was like eating during a vigil. And mysteriously, a vigil is what it turned into.

After a long silence, Valia decided to speak about the Armenian genocide. The smells of dinner were replaced by emotion and unfathomable horror. All the physical pain I was experiencing from working all day in the garden—sore muscles, blistered hands—meant nothing anymore. Physical pain is much easier to heal. If you cut yourself, you put some ointment on it and it goes away, but emotional pain rises up like haunting spirits from the grave and relentlessly reminds you of how people can be so evil. And the evil seeps into your head and tries to eat all of the goodness and love inside of you. Emotional pain can heal, but it takes time. For many Armenians it has taken a lifetime.

“The Turkish government is corrupt and evil,” she said, her eyes filling with silent tears. They have always been that way. During the genocide, soldiers sliced open the bellies of expectant mothers and bashed children’s heads against stone walls. And today the government fills the world with rhetoric and lies. The government says the genocide didn’t happen and the world believes them?”

I didn’t have an answer. I tried to drown out the screams and anguish of the horrifying darkness as she explained her grief to me, but it was of no use. I could hear mothers and children scream as if I were there in the midst of it all. I could smell the sweat and tears, metal melting on skin, the taste of blood and fear. Pictures of the dead filled my head: women and children thrown about like candy wrappers, scattered across street corners and living rooms; fathers who would never see their children again; mothers who mourned their sons and husbands; Turkish children who were not taught the fragilities of human nature and advanced toward the sight of blood, then raged against the fear they saw, only to encourage more evil and more blood and violence.

I comforted her as best I could, said that I was sorry for all the suffering she and her people had experienced. Then, without saying another word, she got up and went to the kitchen, leaving me with my thoughts and escaping into her own world where I hoped she would one day find peace.

What has living in an Armenian village taught me? How will it influence the rest of my life?

Rural living has taught me much. It has taught me the simple things like how to till a garden and herd cows. It has taught me that life is not always easy and convenient—running out to the outhouse at six in the morning in the bitter cold is not fun at all. But most importantly, the village has taught me the importance of history and why it should always be remembered. History influences our lives and helps us to understand our past. It directs out future. It helps us understand who we are and where we are going.

Peace Corps Online

Caption: Winter, Getk, Armenia. Mt. Aragats is in the background. Photo courtesy of Lazlo Lieszkovszky

Thoughts on the Armenian genocide often race through my head. I am like a shadow on Ararat, always struggling to find the truths of history, to understand why Turkey will not admit to the atrocities that occurred almost a century ago. But most of all, I am searching for reconciliation so that the slaughter of innocents may never happen again. The Turkish government needs to put a ceasefire to their fiery rhetoric. They need to understand the crimes that their predecessors committed so long ago. Armenians need to heal their emotional past and start looking for a brighter future. They need to decide where they are going.

In short, Turkey and Armenia need to find reconciliation. They need to become friends.

Like the Armenians, I will never forget the genocide. Maybe one day everyone else will remember, too.




Links to Related Topics (Tags):

Headlines: July, 2008; Peace Corps Armenia; Directory of Armenia RPCVs; Messages and Announcements for Armenia RPCVs; Peace Corps Turkey; Directory of Turkey RPCVs; Messages and Announcements for Turkey RPCVs





When this story was posted in August 2008, this was on the front page of PCOL:


Contact PCOLBulletin BoardRegisterSearch PCOLWhat's New?

Peace Corps Online The Independent News Forum serving Returned Peace Corps Volunteers RSS Feed
Dodd vows to filibuster Surveillance Act Date: October 27 2007 No: 1206 Dodd vows to filibuster Surveillance Act
Senator Chris Dodd vowed to filibuster the Foreign Intelligence Surveillance Act that would grant retroactive immunity to telecommunications companies that helped this administration violate the civil liberties of Americans. "It is time to say: No more. No more trampling on our Constitution. No more excusing those who violate the rule of law. These are fundamental, basic, eternal principles. They have been around, some of them, for as long as the Magna Carta. They are enduring. What they are not is temporary. And what we do not do in a time where our country is at risk is abandon them."

Peace Corps News Peace Corps Library Peace corps History RPCV Directory Sign Up

July 1, 2008: This Month's Top Stories Date: July 16 2008 No: 1245 July 1, 2008: This Month's Top Stories
Sarah Chayes continues work in Kandahar 29 Jun
PCV Catherine Saltwick killed in Automobile Accident 2 Jun
Richard Stoll returns to Tonga for capitol’s rebuild 2 Jun
Peace Corps Reopens Program in Liberia 4 Jun
Tu Dang is a Foreign Affairs Officer 4 Jun
Bethany Hedt takes aim at AIDS with statistics 5 Jun
Expanding opportunities for deaf PCVs 5 Jun
Peace Corps/Kenya Program Reopening 6 Jun
José Klein is plate artist 9 Jun
Kenyan Prime Minister Visits PC Headquarters 19 Jun
Michael Meyer's writes "The Last Days of Old Beijing" 20 Jun
Chuck Ludlam writes: Congress Enacts PCV Tax Law 24 Jun
Dodd Speaks in Opposition to FISA Bill 24 Jun
Christopher Hill critical to success in Korea Talks 25 Jun
Mark Gearan writes: Hillary Clinton's Contribution 25 Jun
James Rupert writes: Pakistan Fights Taliban 27 Jun
Elaine Chao hails U.S.-China dialogue 28 Jun
Obituary for Bud Keith - Champion for Disabled 29 Jun
Life in prison for killer of PCV Julia Campbell 30 Jun
John Coyne writes: PC Archives at JFK Library 30 Jun
Mark Shriver to Chair National Commission on Children 30 Jun

New: More Stories from May and June 2008
June 1, 2008: This Month's Top Stories Date: July 16 2008 No: 1247 June 1, 2008: This Month's Top Stories
Senator ties up Kathleen Stephens appointment 1 May
Philip Dacey writes "The New York Postcard Sonnets" 31 May
Sophia Polasky writes: Luncheon with the president 30 May
Arnold Wendroff warns dangers of ritual use of mercury 30 May
Lynn Lurie writes “Corner of the Dead" 29 May
Obama Urges Grads To Serve Country 26 May
Nick Mucha promotes development at surf destinations 25 May
Don Crosby and wife serve in Thailand at 70 23 May
Matthew Handley pursued case of 12 murdered Nepalis 22 May
Zig and Irma Sokolnicki receive President's Award 21 May
Bruce Sterling writes: Steve Cisler RIP 20 May
Colorado to host Peace Corps Reunion in August 19 May
Hugh Pickens writes: Death Be Not Proud 17 May
Zachery Scott writes: Being a gay volunteer 14 May
PCVs in China Are Safe after earthquake 12 May
Louis Adams relives PC days in Morocco 12 May
Jemison say US leaders have made foolish decisions 11 May
Amy Smith's low-tech inventions have high impact 8 May
Bill Moyers on the 2008 Elections 8 May
Don Odermann creates Education Fund for Latin Players 5 May
Peter Hessler wins National Magazine Award 2 May

New: More Stories from April and May 2008

May 1, 2008: This Month's Top Stories Date: May 2 2008 No: 1242 May 1, 2008: This Month's Top Stories
Condoleezza Rice Visits PC Headquarters 28 Apr
Bush hosts PCVs at White House 29 Apr
George Derrick is Oklahoma's first PCV 27 Apr
Debate is Brewing over Older Volunteers 25 Apr
Peter Spiro Scaled Corporate Ladder at Microsoft 24 Apr
Ukraine PCV terminated after testing HIV positive 22 Apr
Strauss writes: PC never lived up to purpose or principles 22 Apr
Atlantic Publishing needs your help on PC book 21 Apr
Nicole Nakama follows in footsteps of Father as PCV 21 Apr
Jerry LaPre writes: The Children of Sierra Leone 21 Apr
Robert Blackwill quits lobbying firm 19 Apr
An Interview with Christopher R. Hill 18 Apr
Harris Wofford introduces Obama's Speech on Race 18 Apr
Matthews could Challenge Arlen Specter for Senate 16 Apr
Lee Myung-bak invites 1500 RPCVs back to Korea 15 Apr
Peace Corps looks forward to returning to Kenya 11 Apr
Kathleen Stephens Quizzed by Congress 11 Apr
Campbell murder trial ends; Verdict set for June 30 9 Apr
Dodd Calls for New Strategic Partnership in Americas 9 Apr
Jake Hooker wins Pulitzer Prize for "A Toxic Pipeline" 9 Apr
Sirleaf welcomes return of PCVs to Liberia 8 Apr

New: More Stories from March and April 2008

What is Wrong at the US Embassy in Bolivia? Date: February 10 2008 No: 1227 What is Wrong at the US Embassy in Bolivia?
Last summer Peace Corps Inspector General David Kotz cited the lack of cooperation from the US embassy in Bolivia in the search for missing Peace Corps Volunteer Walter Poirier III. Now a member of the US Embassy Staff in Bolivia is accused of asking Peace Corps Volunteers "to basically spy" on Cubans and Venezuelans in the country. Could US Ambassador Philip S.Goldberg please explain what is going on at the embassy that he has been running in La Paz since 2006?



Read the stories and leave your comments.








Some postings on Peace Corps Online are provided to the individual members of this group without permission of the copyright owner for the non-profit purposes of criticism, comment, education, scholarship, and research under the "Fair Use" provisions of U.S. Government copyright laws and they may not be distributed further without permission of the copyright owner. Peace Corps Online does not vouch for the accuracy of the content of the postings, which is the sole responsibility of the copyright holder.

Story Source: PCOL Exclusive

This story has been posted in the following forums: : Headlines; COS - Armenia; COS - Turkey; Genocide

PCOL41688
74


Add a Message


This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Username:  
Password:
E-mail: